GoldenArchesEast_McDonald'sinEastAsia - (EPUB全文下载)
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Golden Arches East
Golden Arches EastMcDonald's in East AsiaSecond EditionEdited byJames L. Watson
Preface to the First EditionIt seems appropriate to begin with a biography of this project. Why fast food? How did five anthropologists find themselves doing ethnographic studies of McDonald's in East Asia?
This is not the sort of study most people think of as the proper
subject of anthropology.I must confess that I was drawn into this project by circumstances not of my own devising. In 1989 Ruble Watson and I
made our annual visit to a village in Hong Kong's New Territories, just south of the old Anglo-Chinese border. We have
been doing fieldwork in the New Territories since the late
1960s, concentrating on topics that excite anthropologists (if
not always the general reader): lineage organization, inheritance patterns, ancestor worship, geomancy, popular religion.
Each year we looked forward to treating our host family, including two godsons, to dim sam (tea snacks) in Yuen Long, a
market town that has evolved into a booming city. Soon after
our arrival in early January 1989, our friends proposed: "Let's
go to the new place. That's where the kids want to eat."Later, as we emerged from our taxi-van, I looked up and
there, looming in front of me, was a gigantic, three-story, sparkling new McDonald's restaurant. My first reaction can best be
described as sensory disorientation: Where was I? I remember
muttering to Ruble, "I didn't fly all the way from Boston to
eat at McDonald's!" But of course I did, and have continued to do so on every subsequent visit to the New Territories. In the lives of my godsons and their age mates, McDonald's is a central institution. They are transfixed by the place and conspire in ever more creative ways to eat there.
Finally, after numerous visits to the Yuen Long McDonald's, it dawned on me that something had to be done about this phenomenon: it was clearly too important to ignore. I talked four colleagues into joining me in comparative studies of five East Asian settings. Each of us report similar flashes of astonishment when we discovered how deeply fast food chains had affected the lives of people we thought we knew well.The Golden Arches have become, as readers well know, an icon of international business and popular culture, recognized nearly everywhere on the planet. Ninety-six percent of American children are familiar with Ronald McDonald;` the figures are probably equally high in Hong Kong and Tokyo, w ............
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