PricingBeauty_TheMakingofaFashionModel - (EPUB全文下载)

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The publisher gratefully acknowledges the generous support of the Authors Imprint Endowment Fund of the University of California Press Foundation, which was established to support exceptional scholarship by fi rst-time authors.
Pricing Beauty
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Pricing Beauty
The Making of a Fashion Model
Ashley Mears
University of California Press
Berkeley • Los Angeles • London
University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its activities are supported by the UC
Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For more information, visit www .ucpress .edu .
University of California Press
Berkeley and Los Angeles, California
University of California Press, Ltd.
London, En gland
© 2011 by The Regents of the University of California Photographs courtesy of Beowulf Sheehan, except as noted.
Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data Mears, Ashley, 1980-Pricing beauty : the making of a fashion model /
Ashley Mears.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978- 0- 520- 26033- 7 (cloth : alk. paper) —
ISBN 978- 0- 520- 27076- 3 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Models (Persons) 2. Modeling agencies.
3. Fashion shows. I. Title.
HD8039.M77M43 2011
338.4'774692—dc22
2011006003
Manufactured in the United States of America 20
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This book is printed on Cascades Enviro 100, a 100%
post consumer waste, recycled, de- inked fi ber. FSC
recycled certifi ed and pro cessed chlorine free. It is acid free, Ecologo certifi ed, and manufactured by BioGas energy.
To Jennifer
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Contents
List of Illustrations
ix
Ac know ledg ments
xi
1. Entry
1
2. Economics of the Catwalk
27
3. Becoming a Look
71
4. The Tastemakers
121
5. Size Zero High- End Ethnic
170
6. Runway to Gender
209
7. Exit
249
Appendix: The Precarious Labor of Ethnography 263
Notes
267
Bibliography
283
Index
297
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Illustrations
Figures
1.1. Production world behind the look / 8
1.2. Front stage of fashion / 14
1.3. Backstage of fashion / 14
1.4. Metro and Scene at a glance / 23
2.1. Editorial and commercial worlds in the fashion fi eld / 39
2.2. Structure of the ............

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